In the turnaround of Courrèges | Vogue Business

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The first returns of more commercial sensitivity are encouraging. “Da Felice’s Courrèges are accessible and portable,” says Benjamin Simmenauer, professor at the Institut Français de la Mode. “He brought back the youth component of the brand’s identity, stripping it of its more conceptual or avant-garde elements. “

“La Courrèges reinvented by Nicolas di Felice is exactly what we want right now – heritage, modern, sexy, chic, Parisian, global – a new twist on the perfect [post-lockdown] uniform ”, declares Laure Hériard Dubreuil, founder and artistic director of The Webster, who adds that the brand is selling“ extremely well ”. “We continue to reorganize more. We love the iconic mini skirt update and the idea of ​​dressing head-to-toe in vinyl. Personally, I still wear one of my mother’s original sweaters.

Nicolas Di Felice made his debut with the Courrèges Fall / Winter 2021 collection.

Courtesy of Courrèges

Price adjustment was one of Da Maia’s first steps. In the Reedition collection, an iconic vinyl jacket reworked with organic cotton and plant-based polyurethane is now on sale at € 750, up from € 1,090 four years ago. To identify the right price, Da Maia surveyed the second-hand market, where the coin sells for between 450 and 700 €. “There are many vintage Courrèges pieces on the market. We don’t want to oppose it; it’s a real strength and a real opportunity, ”he says. (Vestiaire Collective, the resale platform, states that searches for Courrèges have increased by 81% worldwide since the start of 2021.) “We made sure to have more precise price positioning. When André Courrèges invented the ‘Couture Future’ concept [in 1965], he reinvents his model to offer ready-to-wear, breaking with haute couture. This approach for more widely distributed, more accessible is what also motivates me ”, explains Da Maia.

While ready-to-wear accounts for 65% of the business, according to the brand, handbags are also planned for future development. A collection of five new eau de parfum fragrances, developed in-house, will arrive in stores in October. Courrèges has more than 100 wholesale outlets around the world, he says, with France, the United States and Japan as its three main markets. China is also on the radar, selling through Farfetch and wholesale partners. An effort to grow Instagram has paid off, with some 50,000 subscribers collected in recent months. No matter the frustrations of the pandemic – Da Maia is pulling out all the stops.

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